The last few weeks of winter have been particularly
cold and bleak, not the sort of weather for venturing out to seek a picturesque
view. So when driving back down the A38
on a very chilly day after an unavoidable trip to Bristol I noticed the sign
for Axbridge at Shute Shelve Hill and was reminded of a pleasant summer visit
there a few years ago. My wife and I,
with some friends, had a very enjoyable lunch sitting outside at the Lamb Inn,
a coaching inn dating from 1480, on a corner of Axbridge’s charming medieval
square.
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The Lamb Inn, Axbridge in Somerset. A coaching inn dating from 1480. |
In days of old the town was a convenient and
favourite base for royal hunting parties ranging over the Royal Forest of
Mendip. Indeed, the Anglo-Saxon King
Edmund, brother of Athelstan, nearly met his death riding over Cheddar Gorge
while stag-hunting.
Colin Wintle in his Around Historic Somerset and Avon, (Midas
Books, 1978) writes this of Axbridge: “Medieval
kings, with their passion for hunting, gave Axbridge considerable status, but
of all the Norman and subsequent Plantagenet monarchs who came there for sport
King John is most remembered. There in a
central position facing the main square is a building traditionally known as
King John’s Hunting Lodge – and the site of a similar retreat once occupied by
his Saxon predecessors. The building is
an early Tudor merchant’s house. Now a
National Trust property, it contains a museum of local history and
archaeology. The oldest existing
building in Axbridge is its noble fifteenth century church with a fine tower,
standing on an eminence overlooking the parish.”
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King John's Hunting Lodge in Axbridge. |
Nestling between the foothills of the
Mendips and the Somerset Levels, Axbridge grew from a fortified Saxon burgh and
was an important wool producer in the Middle Ages. It held markets and fairs, had its own mint,
and even its own river port in its early days. Its narrow streets leading to the square were once a challenge to both
horse drawn and motorised vehicles, but today there is far less through traffic
now that the A371 effectively bypasses the town and speeds tourists from the
A38 directly to ever popular Cheddar and its Gorge.
Signposts direct you to a handy car park not
far from the square so one has plenty of time to have meal, visit King John’s
Hunting Lodge with its museum and climb the imposing steps leading to the
Church of St. John the Baptist.
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The Church of St. John the Baptist in Axbridge, Somerset. |
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